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Tundra
January 11th, 2010, 11:40 AM
This is from Karina Gallo, from Soap That Makes Scents (http://www.soapthatmakesscents.com). She wrote it especially for us. :)

Please check her out, I'm really very impressed with the soaps on Etsy.


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Soap Making Myths Busted


Soapmaking, especially for the beginner, can be a daunting process. There is SO much to have to learn, ingredients you must familiarize yourself with before starting, tons of information to sift through, and even more fiction and misunderstanding about the beauty of handmade soap. So how do you know what's truth and what's fiction?

First, let's talk quickly about the different processes of making handmade soap:

Cold Process (CP) and Hot Process (HP) — These are soaps made from scratch; in other words with raw oils, fats, and lye. It's an actual science, and much research and work on formulas can take months or years to find the perfect "recipe" for a soap.

Melt and Pour (M&P) — Melt and pour soap is when you use a base. The work of using raw chemicals has been done beforehand. M&P soapers buy a good quality base, melt it down adding color and fragrance, plus sometimes other ingredients (ground oatmeal, or lavender buds for example) to conform the base.

“Re-batched” - Soap that is made using the CP or HP process, re-melted, and re-poured into a mold (also referred to as “hand-milled” soap).

So which one is the "best way" to make soap? No method is superior to another and it all comes down to personal preference. One of the biggest myths out there is that Melt & Pour soap "isn't actual soap." This is completely untrue. The only difference between using a base and making them from scratch is that with MP soaps, the process of melting down the fats and lye has been done for you ahead of time. Some MP soapmakers notice that the scent "throw" is wider with MP (that is, the fragrance more intense and longer-lasting) than it is with CP/HP soaps. Others love the wide range of creativity and novelty shapes that can be made (unlike CP or HP that needs to be poured into loaf-shaped or slab molds).

What makes handmade soap different from mass-produced soap? Handmade soap is softer and more luxurious than mass produced soap. It also is less likely to crack and dry out. This is because handmade soap keeps its glycerin, and mass-produced soap removes the glycerin, substituting instead with harsh chemicals, and additives. Oils are carefully chosen for their lathering, conditioning, and moisturizing properties in soap. Essential and fragrance oils contribute scent and therapeutic properties; natural and cosmetic-grade pigments impart color; and botanicals & spices add texture. Now doesn't that sound lovely just reading it? It makes you want to get started immediately, right? Well, there's a few more things you have to factor in before delving into making your own soap.

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Certain precautions must be taken if you choose to make soap using the Cold/Hot Process. Sodium Hydroxide (lye) is extremely caustic and must be handled with care. Dress yourself up in a full face mask or goggles (to protect your face and eyes), rubber apron, long rubber gloves, tuck your hair out of the way if it's long, and work in a well ventilated area when the kiddies/pets aren't around. You'll look like you're ready to do battle, but you'll be safe. You will also need a scale that measures in ounces, pounds and grams. With care and practise, you'll become more comfortable handling the materials so don't worry! So how is the soap safe to use in the end? During the melting of raw oils and fats, something called "saponification" happens. This is what makes it "soap" and the lye is completely removed from the finished bar.

I highly recommend starting off making MP soaps first, and getting a gist of using fragrances, FDA-approved colorants, and other additives you may want to try before making the move to CP or HP.

So how much is all of this going to cost you to get started? I spent the better part of a year testing around 15 different soap bases until I found the right one for me. It is an all natural vegan base and I purchase it in 50 or 100 pound blocks. There are no harsh chemicals or fillers (believe me, I wouldn't want to use it on my skin, so why would I want you to?). Soapmaking can be a rather costly venture to get into, at least for the first year or so. This is where the bulk of your trial and error will happen, and you'll find yourself spending much more money in supplies than you will be making from sales. When making CP or HP soap you'll find yourself throwing out complete batches that didn't set or "cure" properly. Money wasted! If you do wish to sell your handmade soaps, you will need to follow up with your respective State/Country to make sure you have all your legal paperwork in order. You will also want liability insurance (this is for your protection).

Bases, butters, oils, additives, molds and lye (if using) can be quite expensive depending on where you buy them from--so you will want to source out a local supplier to save on shipping charges and look for good ingredients at a reasonable price--wholesale if possible. Buy a little bit of everything at the beginning before placing a larger order so you can see whether they accomplish the end result you are looking for in your soaps.

Do not, I repeat, do NOT give or sell any item that you haven't tested on yourself first. CP and HP soap can go rancid if not made correctly...creams and liquid shampoos can spoil if no preservatives are used. It's imperative that you feel confident enough in what you've made before sharing it with others--whether selling or just making it for your friends and family. You need to know everything you can possibly learn about every ingredient you are using---even if making MP soaps from a base. Know the benefits and properties of any essential oils you are using (as well as the side effects---for instance, there are certain essential oils that should not be used by pregnant women). Essential oils should be treated like medicine.

There are tons of resources out there for the avid soapmaker, and here two of the more popular ones:

http://www.thedishforum.com (http://www.thedishforum.com/)
http://www.soapnaturally.org/subscribe.html

Once you try handmade soap, you'll never go back to store-bought soap again. Even if just for fun, making your own soap can be quite addictive. Remember, research research research---and have fun!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v434/Livinginthepast/NiH/chocolateespressosoap.jpg

Locke
January 11th, 2010, 05:42 PM
Great article. I'm also amused by the idea of a coffee bean soap. That way, coffee shop employees can get an early start on their job by smelling of java before they ever get to work!

MichaelB
January 11th, 2010, 10:50 PM
This is a really great article, very informative. Thank you so much, I'd always wondered about some of those points.

Alas, I keep reading the article title as 'soup-making myths'. Somewhat more delicious perhaps, but not nearly as fascinating.

SoapThatMakesScents
January 12th, 2010, 12:30 AM
Thanks for reading that rather long article! I'm very happy to have given all of you a bit more information on the soap-making process, and you can contact me through my Etsy shop if you have any further questions or need any more help.

I look forward to writing more articles for the NiH community, and getting to know you all better.

Karina
SoapThatMakesScents

strawberry-tea
January 12th, 2010, 09:01 AM
... I'm hungry ...

SoapThatMakesScents
January 15th, 2010, 06:22 AM
LOL strawberry!

IrelandBrady
April 16th, 2010, 11:10 AM
This post brought to mind the soap my Gramma used to make back in the 1940's and 1950's. She made it out of rendered, purified bacon drippings and lye. It was the prettiest, whitest soap ... looked just like homemade "Divinity Fudge" ... and her's was one of the only homemade soaps that floated, like Ivory Soap. Back then, people used to beg Gramma for her soap and her soap recipe. She shared her soap ... but the recipe died with her. And Yes, as I remember, homemade soap was far nicer than store bought soap!

deannatroupe
December 15th, 2010, 10:02 PM
This is one of my favorite things to do. I'm chicken. I don't trust myself with the cold process method. I just stick with what I know, melt and pour. It's so much easier to deal with.

Bremaine
December 17th, 2010, 10:55 AM
I'd like to make homemade soap one of these days. I'll have to check out those sites you posted. Any idea if these soaps are safer for your skin? Because my skin is pretty sensitive to scented soaps these days.

Tundra
December 17th, 2010, 11:09 AM
I don't know, but I know lots of the shops on Etsy have soap that's hand made, and apparently way better for you than the kind of soap you get at the supermarket. Much kinder on your skin. People think of 'home made soap' and they think of the old sort from the past which was really harsh on your skin.

Bremaine
December 17th, 2010, 11:18 AM
Yeah, as long as it's nice on the skin, I may go for it. Also if the scent doesn't mess with my skin much, it may be a decent route for me. I have a small case of eczema so I have to play it safe these days.

Emily Yee
December 28th, 2010, 03:27 AM
I am in love with solid perfume on etsy too.

FuzzyIzmit
December 28th, 2010, 03:29 AM
I love all the handmade soap I have tried on etsy! Lovely stuff!

blackwing
January 10th, 2011, 04:49 PM
that was a very nice article. i need to try homemade soap sometime! lol

t89
January 11th, 2011, 07:28 AM
that coffee soap looks good enough to eat. I've never liked the idea of hand made soap but this article has definatelty opened my mind

Tundra
January 11th, 2011, 11:58 AM
Yeah, people seem to think hand made soap is inferior or something, but I really think it's not. Not if done properly.